Kris Van Assche in 2020. Thomas Samson/AFP via Getty Images
LVMH’s Berluti is parting ways with designer Kris Van Assche, its artistic director since 2018, and will rethink its presentation schedule moving forward. His last collection for Berluti, Autumn/Winter 2021, was presented on April 8.
At Berluti, the Belgian designer was charged with bringing a more fashion-centric perspective to a brand primarily known for shoes, leather accessories and suiting and for building a larger audience in Asia. He was also responsible for expanding the label’s ready-to-wear collection and redefining its identity following the exit of designer Alessandro Sartori, who left in 2016. Sartori was first replaced by Haider Ackermann, who left after three seasons.
Van Assche, who is known for his layered, draped designs and who counts Tilda Swinton and Kanye West as fans, joined the traditional men’s luxury label after 11 years leading Dior Homme. His appointment to the top design job at Berluti came during a wider shuffling of the design talent among LVMH’s men’s collections to capitalise on the rise of more casual, streetwear-influenced style in the category.
LVMH acquired Berluti in 1993 and it remains the only men’s focused label within its portfolio. Berluti added leather goods in 2005 and ready-to-wear in 2011. It is run by chief executive Antoine Arnault.
“In order to maintain our commitment to both savoir-faire and innovation we have decided to let Berluti lead its own rhythm and give freedom to its presentation schedule,” said Arnault in a statement that also thanked Van Assche. “He has brought his own vision to Berluti, particularly by integrating new codes into its signatures.”
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