May 24, 2023
Louis Vuitton, with new creative director Pharrell Williams, will be the headline show of the next Paris Fashion Week Men, scheduled on June 20-25. The US pop star, who took over from Virgil Abloh at the helm of the luxury label’s menswear, will be unveiling his first collection for Louis Vuitton. A major event for the LVMH group’s flagship label which, to mark the occasion, has moved its show to the fashion week’s opening slot, on the evening of Tuesday June 20, as revealed by the provisional calendar recently published by the French menswear union chamber.
In total, 80 labels will be unveiling their Spring/Summer 2024 collection via 38 presentations and 42 runway shows – as opposed to 47 in January – plus a collective show by the graduates of the French Fashion Institute’s academy, scheduled on June 20. Koché will notably make its maiden appearance on the Paris menswear calendar, with a runway show on Friday June 23. Designer Christelle Kocher did not feature in the last womenswear fashion week in order to switch to the menswear calendar, showing earlier in the season to gain visibility and take advantage of more generous buyers’ budgets.
Paris’s forthcoming fashion marathon will feature all the leading luxury houses, from Louis Vuitton to Dior, Hermès, Givenchy, Loewe and Kenzo, as well as prominent labels like AMI, Marine Serre and Lemaire, and emerging names like Botter, Hed Mayner, Grace Wales Bonner, Bluemarble and EgonLab, among others. Nevertheless, the Parisian event has had no fewer than eight withdrawals, including those of Saint Laurent, which had returned last season after a five-year absence, Maison Margiela, which made a one-off come-back show during the June menswear fashion week, and Casablanca, the label by Charaf Tajer, a Paris menswear week regular until now.
Also off the calendar are British designer Bianca Saunders and Chinese label Sankuanz, which have opted for a presentation this season, Kurdish designer Dilan Lurr’s label Namacheko, and Bode. After showing for the first and only time in Paris last June, the US men’s ready-to-wear label has in fact returned to New York.
However, Paris continues to be extremely attractive to emerging designers. The menswear week will feature on its show calendar French designer Burc Akyol, 34, an LVMH Prize finalist this year, who will stage his debut show on Tuesday June 20. Aykol, the son of a Turkish tailor, has studied at the French Fashion Institute before stints in the studios of major labels like Dior, Balenciaga and Ungaro. He went on to set up his demi-couture men’s and women’s label in 2019.
Presentations-wise too, Paris Fashion Week will feature a host of new names. Among them, 4SDesigns, a label produced in Italy by El Salvador-born New York designer Angelo Urrutia; Japanese label Bed J.W. Ford by designer Shinpei Yamagishi; Nigerian designer Adeju Thompson of the Logos Space Programme, recent winner of the 2023 Woolmark Prize; and French label C.R.E.O.L.E (the acronym of Conscience Relative à l’Émancipation Outrepassant les Entraves) by Vincent Frédéric-Colombo.
The latter two will present their collections within the Sphère showroom, backed by the French Fashion and Haute Couture federation with the support of public body DEFI, which regularly showcases the work of the most promising young Parisian designers. Besides Logos Space Programme and C.R.E.O.L.E, five other labels have been selected for the Sphère showroom this season: Arturo Obegero, Christoph Rumpf, Jeanne Friot, Ponder.er and Valette Studio.
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